|
|
Post by reelteacher on Aug 17, 2009 20:43:39 GMT -5
I just received my rod building kit from Cabela's today. It is the Fenwick HMG (6wt.) and came with all of the accessories, ie guides, handle, reel seat, epoxy except the tip top. Do I have to purchase a tip top seperately, or did they forget to include it in the package?
Everything else looks great and I can't wait to get started on it. I purchased the deluxe rod building kit with the drying motor, rod wrapping stand, thread tensioner and handle reamers. It's a pretty sweet deal. I'm concerned about how I am supposed to mount the rod blank to the drying motor. The chuck to hold the handle or blank was not included. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance for any insights.
|
|
|
|
Post by rstaight on Aug 18, 2009 8:32:20 GMT -5
Dustin,
They don't package the tip top with the other guides. It should be in a small package by itself. If you don't have one, call them. It should be with the kit.
I don't have a rod dryer myself. I believe Radio has a drying motor and he may have a suggestion or two.
The Fenwick's are what we are building for the club meeting this Thursday. The blank on that kit seems to have a nice crisp action. Won't really know until the rod is assemblied, but then that is part of the fun.
|
|
|
|
Post by radioflyer on Aug 18, 2009 9:26:28 GMT -5
Dustin,
Welcome to the Darkest of the Dark Side! Bwa ha ha!
The tiptop should be included with the kit. Call Cabelas and tell them you need one for that rod. They should send you one. I believe a size 4.0? Like Rick said it should be with the shipment in a separate little bag and labeled.
That dryer you bought doesn't come with a chuck. You can a) attach the blank to the dryer spindle with masking tape (in rodbuilding masking tape is your best friend), or b) find the Pac Bay RW-1 chuck somewhere...about 21-22 bucks I think. There are other chucks available but I only have experience with PacBay motors.
Have fun with the build and don't get frustrated. Regardless of how your first rod looks it'll still be fishable! And each additional rod you build will improve exponentially with experience.
rf
|
|
|
|
Post by trent on Aug 18, 2009 10:38:53 GMT -5
If I have a rod where I broke the tip off between the tip and the last ferrule, can I just add a tip to the remaining section. Is there any chance that it will fish right? I was going to keep the rod as a loaner. It isn't an expensive rod and getting a new rod section was going to cost almost as much as the rod was new, so I'm not pursuing that option.
|
|
|
|
Post by radioflyer on Aug 18, 2009 10:53:41 GMT -5
Trent,
I've got a tiptop gauge I'll bring so you can measure it and order the proper size tip. A new tip will run you 3-5 bucks if that much. The action will change but depending on the rod it might work. Depends on where it's broken and where the last couple guides are in relation to the new tip location. There should be a guide about 4.5" below the tiptop...the next one down about 9".
rf
|
|
|
|
Post by rstaight on Aug 18, 2009 16:24:43 GMT -5
Depending on the blank you always have the option of removing the guides and rewrapping the rod.
|
|
|
|
Post by reelteacher on Aug 18, 2009 18:46:10 GMT -5
Thank you kindly. I've found the curve, and marked out where I want the guides to be located. I just used an Orvis 9 ft. rod and matched up the blank with that and marked the leading edge of the guide foot with a china marker on the blank. Ready to wrap! This can't be that difficult... I'll let you know how this works for me.
Never found the tip-top. I'll call Cabela's.
I think the masking tape idea will work just fine on the drier.
|
|
|
|
Post by rstaight on Aug 18, 2009 19:18:36 GMT -5
I believe on the last page of the directions that came with the kit there are recommended guide spacings. But duplicating another rod should work fine. It can depend on the blank, so make sure to tape the guides on. Then put on a reel with the proper line and thread the guides. Pull on the line and put the rod into a working arc and look at how the line puts preasure on the blank. Usually if it looks good it is. If not adjust.
I was looking at some of my info today and found that published spacings very quite a bit. For example: I was seeing locations for the first guide from 4" to 4-1/2"
The spacings in your directions are real close to St. Croix spacings for a heavy freshwater rod. However, the eighth spacing (54") puts the guide a little to far back on the ferrule on a 2 piece rod, so some minor adjustments will need to be made.
By putting a guide foot on a ferrule, it saves you an extra wrap. If you don't have a guide foot on a ferrule you will need to wrap the ferrule anyway to strengthen it.
Remember, you have to put the handle on first before you wrap on the guides.
|
|
|
|
Post by reelteacher on Aug 19, 2009 19:23:49 GMT -5
That is a good tip. Thanks! I will see how the rod looks with line through the guides before I wrap them.
Ah yes, handle first. Gotcha!
|
|
|
|
Post by reelteacher on Aug 23, 2009 16:19:05 GMT -5
I finished wrapping my first fly-rod today! I have applied rod finish to the tip section and it is turning on the drier. I'll have to apply rod finish to the butt section tomorrow, and then I'll be ready to try her out on Tuesday or Wednesday! Wow! That was a much quicker procedure than I had anticipated! Especially for my first rod. I'll be turning out rods left and right by next year. I have no idea why I would need anymore rods, but they are much cheaper to build than to buy, except for Cabela's rods. Here are some photos of the new rod. It is a Fenwick 906-2 HMG blank. I taped a nail to the rod drier and then made a tape bushing for the rod section to fit over. It's not pretty, but it works.  Here is a picture of the tip drying.  Here is my handle and reel seat. Yes, everything was placed on in the correct direction, I made double sure each time I added a piece. Thanks Radio, your stories of boiling the handle and reel seat were scary enough. I don't think my wife would like it if I had to boil my rod. Her stock pot might never be the same...  I even had time to add a few decorative touches.   |
|
|
|
Post by rstaight on Aug 23, 2009 17:19:00 GMT -5
Nice job teach. The green wraps and gold trim looks good on a brown blank. That is how I'm wrapping the rod I'm working on.
From what I can see form the pics, your wraps look great. Nice job.
|
|
|
|
Post by radioflyer on Aug 23, 2009 17:29:33 GMT -5
Excellent Teach! Looks beautiful! Let us know how it fishes.
rf
|
|
|
|
Post by reelteacher on Aug 23, 2009 18:40:54 GMT -5
Thanks guys. Quick Question: I used a metallic gel pen to inscribe a few details onto the blank. Will the rod finish cover this effectively, or will it smear the ink? What would you recommend? I have seen metallic paint pens also... Would that be a better choice than gel ink?
|
|
|
|
Post by radioflyer on Aug 23, 2009 18:58:58 GMT -5
Teach, My only experience is with the metallic gel and I've had no problems with the finish smearing the ink. Write it on and let set for a short and you should be good to go. Perhaps Rick has experience with other inks.
rf
|
|
|
|
Post by reelteacher on Aug 23, 2009 19:46:00 GMT -5
I'll give it a try and let you know. Thank you again. This whole experience was AWESOME! I'm definitely hooked now.
Anyone need a rod? I'll make it for you and give you a deal!
|
|
